When to Repot Houseplants | GreenGro Biologicals

So here’s something nobody tells you when you first get into houseplants: eventually, you’re going to need to repot them. And if you’re anything like me, the first time you tried it, you probably either broke half the roots or ended up with soil everywhere except in the pot.

Let me save you some trouble.

The Signs Your Plant Is Screaming for More Room

You don’t need to repot on a schedule. Your plant will tell you when it’s time—you just need to know what to look for.

Check for these:

- Roots coming out of the drainage holes (this one’s pretty obvious)
- Water running straight through the pot without actually soaking in
- The soil pulling away from the sides
- Your plant looking sad despite you doing everything right
- That weird sour smell when you water (that’s dead, compacted soil)

I usually end up repotting most of my plants every year or so, but some are fine for longer. It depends more on the plant than the calendar.

Pot Size: Bigger Isn’t Always Better

This trips people up constantly. Don’t jump from a 4-inch pot to a 10-inch pot just because you’re already doing the work. Go up 1-2 inches max.

Too much soil around the roots means too much water sitting there, and that’s how you get root rot. Been there, learned that lesson the expensive way.

Pot material actually matters:

- Terracotta breathes and dries out faster (good if you overwater)
- Plastic holds moisture longer (better for thirsty plants or if you travel)
- Whatever you pick, make sure it has drainage holes

No drainage = eventual disaster. I don’t care how careful you are with watering.

The Soil Situation

This is where most people just grab whatever bag says “potting mix” and call it a day. And look, that’ll keep your plant alive. But if you want it to actually *thrive*, the soil matters more than almost anything else.

Think about what soil actually is in nature—it’s not just dirt. It’s a living ecosystem full of beneficial fungi and bacteria that help roots absorb nutrients and fight off disease.

What I look for in a good mix:

- Something chunky that doesn’t compact (bark, coco coir)
- Perlite or pumice for drainage
- Biochar (holds moisture and gives beneficial microbes a place to live)
- Mycorrhizal fungi—this stuff is incredible for root development

I’ve been using our Ultra Fine Myco Blend new transplants, and honestly, the difference in root establishment is night and day. The mycorrhizae basically extend your plant’s root system and help it absorb way more nutrients.

And mixing in some Biomend Plus  gives you the beneficial bacteria that keep the whole soil ecosystem working.

How to Actually Repot Without Traumatizing Your Plant

Here’s my process:

1. **Water lightly the day before** — makes it easier to remove the plant
1. **Gently remove the plant** — tip the pot, support the base, wiggle it out. If it’s really stuck, squeeze the sides of the pot or run a knife around the edge
1. **Loosen the roots** — if they’re circling around (root-bound), gently tease them apart with your fingers. Don’t be scared—roots are tougher than they look
1. **Prep your new pot** — add a layer of fresh soil at the bottom
1. **Position the plant** — same depth it was before, not deeper
1. **Fill in around the sides** — add soil gradually, pressing gently to eliminate air pockets
1. **Water it in** — this settles the soil and helps roots make contact

Pro tip: I dip the root ball in a solution of water + Green Aminos (about a teaspoon per gallon) before repotting. The amino acids reduce transplant shock and help new roots establish faster. It’s like giving your plant a protein shake before a workout.

The Recovery Period

Don’t just repot and stick your plant back in a sunny window. Give it a few days to recover.

After repotting:

- Keep it out of direct sun for 2-3 days
- Don’t fertilize for at least two weeks
- Water normally but don’t go crazy
- A little drooping is normal—it should perk back up within a week

After two weeks, you can start feeding again. I go gentle with something biological like Green Aminos every couple weeks. No harsh chemical fertilizers right after repotting—that’s like making someone run a marathon right after surgery.

 Don’t Throw Out Your Old Soil

Real talk: you can reuse potting soil. Don’t just toss it.

I mix used soil 50/50 with fresh mix and add some Eartshine Biochar Blend  to bring the biology back to life. It’s better for the environment, saves money, and honestly works just as well as using 100% new soil.

The Bottom Line

Repotting sounds intimidating, but it’s really just giving your plant fresh soil and a bit more room to grow. The key is good timing, the right pot size, and—most importantly—living soil that actually supports root health.

Do it right, and your plant won’t just survive the transplant. It’ll explode with new growth.

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#Ready to Give Your Plants a Fresh Start?

Winter is actually perfect for repotting—your plants are resting anyway, and they’ll have all the support they need to come back strong in spring.

We’ve put together everything you need for successful repotting: living soil amendments, mycorrhizal inoculants, and biological nutrients that work with your plants’ natural systems.

Use code REPOT20 for 20% off our repotting essentials

What you’ll need:

- Ultra Fine Myco Blend  — for explosive root growth
- Biomend Plus — beneficial bacteria for healthy soil
- Green Aminos — reduces transplant shock and feeds gently
- Eartshine Biochar Blend — revives old soil and holds moisture


Questions about repotting? Drop them in the comments below—I read and respond to every one.